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TEN ROMEO NEWSLETTER

DCA-SVO COMMEMORATIVE FLIGHT, Report 2

May 20, 1987

Dear Friends:

It's high time you were brought up-to-date on the March trip to Moscow for planning of the Washington, DC (DCA) to Moscow (SVO) COMMEMORATIVE FLIGHT of TEN ROMEO in June.

One of these days I'll run out of superlatives, but not yet!  This last trip accomplished far more than I had imagined possible.

Since my return, I've given serious thought to the reasons for my increased success on recent trips to Moscow, and have come up with two factors which seem to surface.  First, on this last trip I did not arrange my Moscow itinerary after arriving in the Soviet Union, as in the past.  Six weeks in advance I blocked out the way I wanted to spend my Moscow time, and with whom, and then sent letters to those I wanted to meet with.  This was an act of faith, since communication out of the USSR is limited, and worked beautifully.

Secondly, with my increased number of USSR trips, I have been fortunate in meeting a number of Soviet middle managers.  By and large, these are sharp folks in their 3O's who have become effective operatives within the Soviet society.  They are young, energetic, and know the intricacies of the Soviet system to the point of being able to "get things done".  TEN ROMEO's activities seem to have caught their fancy, as they have many people here in the States.  With a cadre of these "sharp operatives" behind any project, the chances of success are enhanced.

But - on to the report of March events in the USSR.

Arrival in Tallinn was by ferry, and Customs, once again, was cleared without a bag being cracked.  Contact was made with a family I spend time with in Tallinn, and I was pleased to learn that I was invited to an evening at the Hotel Viru Night Club with them.  Since meeting this family, two years earlier, I am impressed with their generosity toward me, a foreigner.  On each visit I bring each family member a small gift, and I find it difficult to spend a single ruble while in Tallinn, thanks to my host and hostess.

A small incident occurred as we were leaving the night club that evening at 12:50 am which illustrates the way problems may arise with a lack of understanding.

Velo, Rita and I were leaving the night club by walking up a wide staircase to the lobby level.  At the top of the stairs was a uniformed "gatekeeper" who blocked access with a chain that he hooked across the passageway, giving him control of those allowed to enter or leave.  As we started up the stairs there seemed to be a commotion at the top.  It appeared that a young man wanted to come down the stairway to the night club.  He was being denied access, and a scuffle was in process which extended to the side railing by the stairwell.  "Gatekeepers" in the Soviet Union - they appear to be pensioners - take their responsibilities very seriously, as a sacred trust.

The young man was determined to enter the club and appeared to be an American student.  There were perhaps a dozen students in his group.  He was preparing to leap over the railing to by-pass the "gatekeeper".

I swung up the final couple of stairs and around the side railing, thrust my hand out to the young man causing the disturbance, and said, "Hi - I'm Professor Harmon.  What's your name?"

He shook hands and told me his name.  "Where are you from?", I asked.  He told me.  It was an institution I knew well.  The group was on a spring break.  As an academic administrator I've dealt with most kinds of students at one time or another and know the flair many US college students have for doing what they want to do when they want to do it.

"What seems to be the problem here?"

"This man won't let me and my friends go down to the night club!"

"Do you have a ticket?"

"A ticket?...  No."  An incredulous look of perception crossed his face,

"You can't enter this night club without a ticket any more than you can attend a 'Boston Pops Night' without a ticket!"

"Oh....  Where can I get a ticket?"

"About fifty feet down that hallway at the Intourist desk, but the club will be closing in ten minutes.  Ten minutes is hardly worth a fuss - why don't you get tickets for tomorrow?"

What had potential of becoming a rather explosive moment became cool immediately with no more than a bit of additional factual input on a situation that carried too little understanding by the American kids.  They were a nice group, had been drinking a little, but had too little knowledge of the Russian language to understand the ground rules.

Time with my Tallinn family was delightful, as always.  Sylvia is the adorable five-year-old member.  I had brought her an attractive little pinafore from the SEARS catalog which she modeled.  She was so pleased with it, ran over and gave me a big hug and kiss, and whispered in my ear, "MA ARMASTAN SIND!" - an Estonian comment which transcends all geographic and political boundaries - I LOVE YOU!

I confirmed by telephone all Moscow arrangements except Baidukov's - his would be handled later - and then took the night train to the capital.

My first "working lunch" in Moscow was with Elena at the National Hotel on Tuesday.  You may recall that Elena is a journalist with IZVESTIA, and her husband, Igor, is the editor of the RUSSIAN EDUCATIONAL GAZETTE.  Elena is a dear friend, and is the only Russian friend I have whom I hear from by mail regularly.  She spent her high school years in the United States during World War II and considers the US the country of her youth.  I have often been Elena's guest for lunch at the IZVESTIA Cafeteria in her office building, so it was pleasant for her to be my guest for a change.

Following the amenities of catching up on family and work, Elena indicated how pleased she was to have received by mail recently my Report #1 on the COMMEMORATIVE FLIGHT.

"I have shared your report with my colleagues, and we are all excited about your June flight.  We were also impressed with your suggested modification of your President's 'State of the Union' address.  Your view carries more understanding of us.  But then - you have visited us so many times.  You know us better than Mr. Reagan does.  Let us hope that relationships will improve between our governments."

I shared with Elena my major objective of the present trip - to have a ten minute coffee klatch with General Georgei Phillip Baidukov, the surviving member of the epic Soviet flight of 1937.  Following lunch, I went to my room and called Paul (a sharp operative), my friend with Radio Moscow.  It was pleasant to visit with him, and he suggested I contact Valery (another sharp operative) about my coffee klatch with the General.  When I contacted Valery, I learned I was scheduled with General Baidukov at 4:00 pm the following afternoon at the "USSR - USA" Society on Kalinin Avenue.

The next morning, Wednesday, I was scheduled at "Sputnik" headquarters with my friends Zurabov and Lavkovskiy.  We spoke about the "miracle" of the Soviet press release of my last visit with them appearing in my local newspaper, the SPOTLIGHT.  We had a pleasant visit, and then they turned to a serious concern.

"Our satellites are having difficulty dealing with clutter on the 121.5 emergency frequency.  We have made some progress with England and France in an attempt to move to a new emergency frequency of 406.  Is there any way you could generate interest in the United States for the use of 406 as an emergency frequency?"

True - I had contributed to that clutter by contacting airlines over the North Atlantic on 121.5 requesting relays of my position reports, but had never considered every 121.5 transmission triggering satellite mechanisms for evaluation of life rescue possibilities.

"I understand the problem, and will do some phoning when I get home.  Why don't we arrange for me to carry a 406 unit on the COMMEMORATIVE FLIGHT?  Perhaps we could get some publicity on the value of the new frequency.  By the way, would you like for me to turn the unit on during my flight so you could track my progress?"

"Oh, no, Mil - don't do that.  BUT - if you do have to land (crash?) please turn the unit on so we know where you are!"

I promised to check the viability of a 406 emergency frequency at home.

At 3:45 p.m. I entered the "USSR - USA" Society facility for my meeting with General Baidukov.  Valery met me in the lobby, and suggested we go upstairs to meet the General.

WHAT A SURPRISE!  There were 20 media representatives present - three TV camera crews, radio, press, and what I expected to be a twenty-minute visit turned into two hours with the press as well as the General and other officials.  Secretary General Alexander Tyrsin of the Soviet Sport Flying Club was there.  He had met me and certified my arrival time at Sheremetyevo on June 18, 1985.  I knew a number of the media representatives, and Igor Chkalov, son of Valery Chkalov, leader of the 1937 Soviet crew, was present.  Valery Chkalov was tragically killed in 1938 test flying a new Soviet aircraft.

General Georgei Phillip Baidukov is a distinguished gentleman of 84 years.  A delightful man with a warm presence and engaging smile.  He spread out the yellowed maps on the table before us - the very maps he and his colleagues carried with them on that flight in 1937.

What an exciting time that was!  General Baidukov is Chairman of the Jubilee Committee, and we discussed his plans for the June celebration of the 1937 event, and then talked about my aircraft and my plans to fly to Moscow to honor his historic flight.

We were 15 minutes into the press conference, the TV cameras were rolling, the klieg lights were on, and the General gave me a calculated look.

"You know, Dr. Harmon, the Soviet Union has no 'Industrial Military Complex' to make profits from the manufacture and sale of arms!"

I looked him straight in the eye, and said, "General, I find my FRIENDSHIP BRIDGES work far better if I don't talk politics!"

A bright sparkle came into his eyes, he smiled, and we reverted to our mutual love of flying.  No further attempt to politicize the moment occurred,

General Baidukov suggested that I arrive on June 18th, rather than 20th, inviting me to the great Jubilee party to be held on the 18th at 6:00 p.m.  This change was noted and later my flight plan was adjusted.

At that warm meeting with Soviet officials, it was agreed that the Jubilee Committee and the Soviet Sport Flying Club would sponsor my June flight once I crossed into Soviet skies in TEN ROMEO.  And then I was able to visit with the General about his historic flight.

His flight took 63 hours and 23 minutes.  They carried rations for one month, should they be forced down.  They carried oranges, tea and coffee in thermos bottles, ham and masla, "but we were really too excited to eat much!"

Their aircraft weighed 12 tons at departure and 6 1/2 tons upon landing, and was the first aircraft to use the "Voyager"-type fueling system with extra fuel carried in the wings.  An extensive test flight was flown before the trans-polar trip, and the engine improved from 850 hp to 1050 hp.  The designation of the aircraft was AM-34-R.

I received much information on the Soviet flight.  The General indicated that they each carried one hour of oxygen, and as they approached the Rockies, the other two gave him their oxygen.  He flew at 18,000+ ft. for three hours on the full oxygen supply as the other two crew members slept.

Late Wednesday afternoon I really touched a part of history!

Thursday Journalist Vladislav Trapeznikov joined me for lunch at the Hotel National.  My friendship with Vladislov grows with each visit to Moscow.  I was pleased to learn that his daughter was well established in her first year at the University, and that he and his wife were well.  We spoke of progress in planning the COMMEMORATIVE FLIGHT.  We agreed that support from the Jubilee Committee and the Sport Flying Club should make clearance for this June's flight much easier than the 1985 trip.  Vladislav indicated that as the arrival date approaches, he plans to do an in-depth feature article on me and my FRIENDSHIP BRIDGES which would receive extensive distribution.  I mentioned the AP feature article done by Jeff Donn which went to every AP outlet in the United States in February, and was sorry I did not bring a copy for him.  Our meal was excellent.

As we were waiting for dessert, Vladislav opened his folder and pulled out a packet of material.

"Millard, I have contacts in England who send me extensive information on English cultural habits, customs and traditions.  Here are the articles I have done for my newspaper, NOVOSTI, based upon the material received from those friends.  We here in the Soviet Union have an insatiable curiosity in what goes on outside our borders, - we have a particular interest in lifestyles of Westerners.  With our new 'glasnost' policy, it is now possible for us to pursue our inner interests openly.  Would you be able to provide me with material, or put me in touch with people who could, so that I might share such information with our millions of readers?"

"Vladislav - all such information should be readily available through the US Embassy here in Moscow!"

"We have tried that route, Millard, and we find your Embassy unresponsive'."

I suggested that following my June flight I would find a way to provide him with such information.

With lunch over, I agreed to meet Vladislav in his office at 3:00 p.m. for an interview he had arranged with the editor of SOVIET LIFE, perhaps their top "slick" magazine written in English for foreign distribution.

The meeting with the SOVIET LIFE editor went well.  A complimentary subscription to the magazine was arranged for me, and I was asked to do a feature article on my 1985 record flight into Sheremetyevo.

I left NOVOSTI headquarters and made contact with another good friend, Sergei, who is the right hand of Dr. Arbatov, director of the Canadian/USA Institute.  Sergei is another sharp operative.  We spoke about the COMMEMORATIVE FLIGHT, and he said, "You know, Millard, we are using your FRIENDSHIP BRIDGES as examples of what small CBMs carried out by private individuals can do to improve Soviet/American relationships.  You know, there are many here who look upon your commitment to friendship with us as an important step toward increased understanding!"  (It's nice to have friends!)

I had invited Igor (not editor Igor, but "Youth Committee" Igor) for breakfast at the National the next morning, and he arrived at 8:00 a.m. sharp.

After we caught up on personal matters, we turned to the COMMEMORATIVE FLIGHT of TEN ROMEO.  I briefed him on my exciting two hours with General Baidukov and the support given by the Jubilee Committee and the Soviet Sport Flying Club.

"Well," he said, "it looks like things are well on track.  I will see that our newspapers contact you for coverage.  Will you be available later today for interviews?"  I assured him I was.

I returned to my room, and in a matter of minutes two calls came in locking in a PRAVDA interview at 11:00 am and time with SOVIETSKAYA-RUSSIA at 6:00 pm.

The interview at 11:00 was with Galina, and she brought along "the best photographer in the Soviet Union".  Galina was so happy, bubbling in fact, so I probed gently for the reason for her joy, and finally she let her secret out.  It was her 25th birthday!  I wished her a "Happy Birthday".

Her eyes sparkled, and her smile was beautiful as she looked up at me.  "Thank you Dr. Harmon.  You are the first person to wish me that today!"

Galina's article would appear in PROVDA the next morning, March 28th.  It would be "slugged": "We report in full - THE ODYSSEY OF MILLARD HARMON".  The report would be warm, carry a sensitive accuracy of my own objectives, and close with a final paragraph as follows:

"'My dream' - said Dr. Harmon - 'is to see that these people (meaning fellow Americans), as I, could fly from America to Russia, not with animosity and suspicion, but with love.'  We wish every success to Dr. Harmon."

The evening interview was held by Nick and his photographer.  The story would also run on Saturday morning, and be "slugged": "Millard Harmon - I WILL FLY THE ROUTE OF CHKALOV".  It would also be positive.  Nick is a ham operator, and we established a number of frequencies for communication attempts during the COMMEMORATIVE FLIGHT.  Nick indicated he would be speaking by radio with three Russian explorers testing a new kind of sled on a dash to the Arctic.

"Give them, Nick, warmest friendly regards from me to them as one Arctic Explorer to fellow adventurers on what must be an exciting project!"

The next morning I bought a copy of each of the newspapers that were to carry Galina and Nick's work.  I had learned that 40 million copies of PRAVDA are printed each day, and that Soviets tend to equate importance with size of newspaper photographs printed.  It is interesting to note that my photograph was four times the size of Margaret Thatcher's on March 28th.

Saturday morning a TV interview had been scheduled with my friend, Andrew Sturua.  Once again, the interview was filmed on Gorky Street, with the Kremlin in the background.  The interview went well, and we were joined by a documentary TV photographer who also picked up considerable footage.  Andrew and his wife were leaving right after the interview to join their ten-year old daughter who had been away from home for a week of vacation.  Before leaving, current status of plans for the DOCUMENTARY FLIGHT was reviewed, and it was pleasant as we both thought back to nearly two years earlier when Andrew suggested TEN ROMEO fly the Chkalov route to honor the 1937 trip.

Following the TV interviews, I returned to the hotel.  By this time it was close to noon, and I was not expecting the "celebrity" status that the newspaper features had generated.  Hotel staff, as well as Intourist friends, all wanted me to sign their newspaper copies!  It was also interesting to learn that newspapers are normally sold out by 9:00 a.m.  As word spread, a number of folks asked me if I had a copy of the article they could have.

Sunday I had a remarkable experience.  Igor Chkalov, Valery Chkalov's son, took me to a special Historical Flight Museum.  You will recall Valery was leader of the 1937 flight.

The museum is housed in a small blue building, and is filled with photographs and models depicting the interesting background of Soviet flight experience with one exception - no attention is given to current aircraft.  In this museum of Soviet flight, the Wright Flyer is appropriately displayed, as are Soviet experiments following the Wrights' success.  Valery Chkalov was the top test pilot in the USSR and test flew all aircraft developed during the late twenties and through 1938, when a test flight in a new design resulted in his death.  As I looked at the pictures and models of the many aircraft displayed, I noticed one that looked remarkably like our P-39.  Valery was testing this aircraft when he met his untimely death.

It was then that a bit more history came into focus.  President Roosevelt recognized the Soviet Union shortly following his inauguration in 1933.  The 1937 flight was an important link between the USA and the USSR, and the Soviet pilots were feted extensively.

Then, in 1942 General Baidukov came to the States and visited with the President again.  Arrangements were made for him to visit all major US aircraft manufacturing plants, and for three months he flew each aircraft being built or under development here in the States.  It is not surprising that he selected an aircraft similar in appearance to the one in which Valery made his final flight which I had seen pictured in the museum.  In addition to the P-39, Baidukov also requested A-20s and B-25s.  Following Baidukov's decision, Roosevelt arranged for the aircraft he had selected to be shipped to our ally, the USSR.  I do not have firm figures on the quantities we shipped, but my understanding is that the P-39 reached the Soviet Union in large numbers and became a favored aircraft among Soviet pilots.

Igor is a retired Soviet Air Force Colonel, and his knowledge of aircraft is extensive.  It was a pleasure to become better acquainted with this unusual man, whose father remains a major Soviet Hero.

Sunday evening I took the night train to Helsinki for my FINNAIR flight home.

This most recent Soviet trip marks a new level of success in working out contacts and objectives in support of my FRIENDSHIP BRIDGES.

A couple of items to share with you in closing this report.

In early March, before my trip to the USSR, I had a delightful time visiting with my daughter and her family in St. Thomas of the USVI.  Will and Mary had set up a number of interviews with TV, radio, and newspapers, as well as a number of government officials.  It was my hope to present my record plaque from Bermuda to St. Thomas to the legislature in St. Thomas as a gift to the people the USVI.

It was a busy time with lots of exposure.  The TV hostess of Channel 1O's 30-minute "Let's Talk" weekly feature was Yvonne Wright.  It's a mighty small world - it was Yvonne's great-uncle who signed the framed picture of the WRIGHT FLYER which I carried into Sheremetyevo in 1985 as a gift from the US Aviation Hall of Fame to the Soviet Sport Flying Club.  What a pleasure it was to visit with Yvonne for 30 minutes on her show.

I intended to deliver the record plaque to the President of the USVI. Legislature on Friday, but the day was rushed, and this presentation was rescheduled for their next session on Tuesday.  During the weekend, there was a political "coup", and so early Tuesday morning I met the new President of the Legislature, The Honorable Iver A. Stridon.  My visit and his acceptance of the record plaque was his first official act as President.  Because of this distinction, I was invited into Iver's office and he had many questions for me about the local airport.  Channel 10 covered the plaque presentation, and on the air one of those beautiful Beech-36 lapel pins was given to the President.  (How's that, Max?)

Ruth and I had plenty of time for beaching, sailing and visiting with that wonderful family of ours!

Shortly following my return to the States, I received a call from my friend Rev. Anatoly Sokolov of the Moscow Baptist Church.  He was in Buffalo and planned to be in Albany the following day.  I met his bus as it arrived.

What fun I had with Anatoly and his friends.  He was with a group of 19 Soviets visiting the States.  This was a distinguished group - a Soviet "People's" artist (the highest artistic rank, I believe), a legislator from Estonia, an opera singer, a number of musicians, a nationally known Soviet photographer, and several professors.  I became well acquainted with this group.

There was a covered-dish supper at one of the local churches their last evening in Albany.  A warm, pleasant evening of fellowship was enjoyed by all.

A professor of Geology from Riga said, "You know, Dr. Harmon, I read about you in PRAVDA before I left home.  I didn't believe a word of that news report.  I did not believe there could be an American willing to go to such lengths for Soviet/American friendship!  Now that I have met you, and felt your enthusiasm, I BELIEVE!"

This remarkable group of new Soviet friends entertained us that evening.  The opera singer was young, beautiful and talented, and the music was varied and lively.  Agape was truly present.  As a closing gesture, the leader of the Soviet group made a presentation to the host-group chairman - a beautiful hard-cover Russian book in color.

The gift from the Albany host group to the Soviet guest group was a small pin objecting to naming the new US submarine the "Albany".

Steve and I know you will all be flying, in spirit, with us next month on our most exciting and demanding TEN ROMEO project to date - the DCA-SVO COMMEMORATIVE FLIGHT.  We will build another great FRIENDSHIP BRIDGE!

Rest assured, we will not depart the USA without our Soviet visas this time!